The ongoing search for a good curry recipe
Chicken curry. Photo by Lindsey Nair
If I had to pick one type of cuisine that I’d love to know more about making from scratch, it would be Indian. Ever since the first time I tried Indian food, I have been in love with the exotic flavor combinations. The dish I crave most is malai kofta, or vegetarian dumplings in a rich, creamy sauce.
But I also love a good curry dish. I’ve started using more Indian seasonings such as turmeric and garam masala, and since I had those on hand — along with cumin and coriander — I decided recently to try a Fine Cooking recipe for North Indian Chicken Curry.
It smelled so good, but the resulting dish seemed to be missing something to me. I wanted to salt it more when it was on my plate, which is unusual for me. But that told me that I had not hit the mark for which I had aimed. I know one problem is that I used chicken breasts instead of thighs. I had breasts on hand and didn’t want to go to the store. But I feel like maybe something was missing in the sauce, too.
I’m going to share the recipe here because some of you may like it – I dunno, maybe it was just me. But I also want to share it in the hopes that someone who knows how to make great curry will have a look at it and tell me what they think I could do differently to make it better next time. I’ll bet I’m not the only one who could use a few tips!
North Indian Chicken Curry
Serves 5 to 6
2 Tbsp. canola or peanut oil (I used peanut)
2 cups finely chopped onions (from 2 medium onions)
1 cup plain nonfat yogurt, at room temperature
1 tsp. cornstarch
1 Tbsp. minced fresh ginger
1 Tbsp. minced garlic
1 to 2 hot fresh green chiles (such as serranos), minced
4 lbs. bone-in chicken thighs, skin and excess fat removed
1 Tbsp. ground coriander
1 1/2 tsp. ground cumin
3/4 tsp. turmeric
3/4 tsp. cayenne
1 28-oz can whole peeled tomatoes, chopped, with juices
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves (more for garnish)
Kosher salt
1 1/2 tsp. garam masala
Heat oil in a Dutch oven or a deep, wide saucepan set over medium-high heat. Add onions and stir to coat them with the oil. Spread in an even layer and cook for 2 minutes. Stir well, rearrange in an even layer again, and cook for 2 minutes. The onions should have begun to brown around the edges. Reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are a rich brown, another 10 to 12 minutes. Lower the heat if necessary so the onions don’t burn.
Meanwhile, put the yogurt in a small bowl, stirring until it is creamy. Stir in cornstarch well.
Add ginger, garlic and chiles to the onions. Cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, for 2 minutes so they meld with the onions. Add all the chicken thighs and cook, stirring occasionally, until they lose their raw color and begin to brown, 5 to 6 minutes. Lower the heat to medium-low and add coriander, cumin, turmeric and cayenne. Cook for 2 minutes, stirring frequently and scraping the bottom of the pan.
Add tomatoes and their liquid, the yogurt, the chopped cilantro and 2 tsp. salt. Stir well, cover with a tight-fitting lid and bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer until chicken is cooked through, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from heat and taste for salt.
To serve, sprinkle the garam masala over the dish and garnish with cilantro.
Source: Fine Cooking, Special Comfort Foods Issue, Soups & Stews 2010.
December 6, 2011 - 11:30 AM
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Just by looking at the recipe, I can tell you it probably tasted ‘flat’ because of the of the nonfat yogurt and peanut oil. To me, Indian never tastes authentic unless it has the full-fat versions of dairy products and ghee in place of the fat/oil. I love cooking Indian dishes but I rarely do since to get the true flavor I make them very unhealthy
You need to add the powdered spices just as the onions are getting done so that you toast them a bit, and then add the garlic and chiles and saute them, too. If you add the spices after you add the chicken they don’t combine as well with the onions, garlic and chiles. Also, in a recipe meant for American tastes I tend to double the amount of powdered spices, except for tumeric which tends to get overpowering.
This recipe seems a little thin as to the garlic and ginger, and low fat, or better yet,full fat yogurt would be better, I think.
Years ago, I made shrimp vindaloo from scratch, including making my own garam masala; good as any I’ve had, and the process of grinding fresh spices and how they blended into something completely different was fascinating, but it was a long process.
Nonfat yogurt? Yucko, that’s your problem, right there.
I agree that it does look like something is missing from the recipe. Fat may be it, but I think it also needs a concentrated paste to build on. Needing a paste means that all my curries are tomato-ey, using a tablespoon of tomato paste and a tablespoon of Nirav brand curry paste, in addition to the yogurt, coconut milk, spices, etc.
Non-fat dairy products tend to have little flavor or creaminess. I agree wih cole78 on the use of full-fat dairy, which can be used in moderation on special occasions, and I consider curry a very special occasion! I would hold the yogurt entirely and add cream instead. Also, toasting the spices separately develops their flavor and definitely makes your kitchen smell divine!
This is some *excellent* feedback. First of all, I will change the recipe to full-fat yogurt or maybe even heavy cream. It did not call for coconut milk, but maybe that wouldn’t be a bad idea. I have seen ghee but never bought it because I pictured it sitting in my arteries.
Patricia, that is a fascinating point about adding the spices sooner. I have used recipes where the spices were added sooner and cooked until fragrant and I remember thinking it was a little odd that they didn’t call for that technique instead. Fine Cooking is usually spot-on, in my experience.
Thank you also for the paste idea, Christie. I’ll bet that would make it richer in flavor.
Speaking of making your own garam masala, that same recipe included instructions for making your own:
Yield: 1 Tbsp.
3/4 tsp. coriander seeds (or 3/4 tsp. ground)
1/2 tsp. cumin seeds (or 3/4 tsp. ground)
10 black peppercorns (or 1/8 tsp. finely ground)
1 (1-inch) cinnamon stick (or 1/2 tsp. ground)
4-5 whole green cardamom pods (or 1/4 tsp. ground)
4 whole cloves (or 1/8 tsp. ground)
In a dry skillet, toast the coriander and cumin until aromatic. Put them in a spice grinder or coffee mill, add all the other ingredients, and grind to a powder.
I made curry before using the Golden Curry paste they now carry at Krogers and it tastes great, but it’s not nearly as time consuming as this recipe looks to be.
Indian food – and all Asian foods – are the cuisines I love to eat out the most because A) I don’t know how to make them myself well and B) I suspect they all take a long time with lots of ingredients and many many steps. When I eat Italian out, I usually think, Hey! I could probably make this myself, even better!
When at Taaza, I never,ever think that.
Roanoke County Parks and Rec offers Indian Cooking classes that are really good. I can’t remember her name but the woman is very knowlegeable and a fun teacher. She is actually from India. She might be an interesting person for a future story.
Kroger Bonsack has Thai curry sauce in a jar which is excellent. They sell Tikka Masala and Korma sauces as well. Probably not as good as homemade but will do in a pinch. Dump the jar in a sauce pan, add chicken or shrimp, Voila!
Lindsay, stop by and I will tell you how to make ghee in 15 minutes flat.
Ambika Indian grocery on Brambleton has some great Indian dinner kits, as well. And good frozen naan.
Trader Joes has great Indian “simmer sauces” as well…green and red curries, korma and vindaloo.
I thought ghee was clarified butter?
It is clarified butter that is then cooked further until it browns a little. That’s just what I’ve read. You see Chris over at Firefly Fare has offered to give me a demonstration
I have a great chicken curry recipe. It probably isn’t as authentic as yours, but it has a robust curry flavor and is made with light cream (forget that low-fat yoghurt!)….and also includes chopped apple as well as onion, which I think makes a big difference. Does not have tomato. I’ll be happy to share it.