My trip to Asheville, NC
Veggie melt with black-eyed peas at Tupelo Honey Cafe in Asheville. Photo by Lindsey Nair l The Roanoke Times.
Technically, I’ve been to Asheville, NC, four times. But since the first three times were spent at the Biltmore Estate, I could never really say I knew much about the city itself. During a visit to my sister in Spartanburg, SC, recently, Mom and sis and I decided to make the one-hour drive to Asheville to check out the downtown area.
Having lived in Roanoke for 15 years, I’ve heard a lot about Asheville. Most of what I’ve heard have been comparisons between Asheville and Roanoke, which are both located on the Blue Ridge Parkway with easy access to outdoor activities in the Blue Ridge Mountains. A lot of folks seem to think Roanoke should be just like Asheville, and I’ve heard a lot of complaining about the fact that it isn’t. So I was very curious about the place.
We arrived at noon on a Saturday, found a parking spot in a pay lot and spent the rest of the afternoon wandering around in the vicinity of Haywood Street and Patton Avenue. We checked out the Grove Arcade, an upscale shopping center filled with independently owned shops. We walked around the little craft vendor area outside the arcade, popped into some shops along Haywood (including a candy store called Kilman’s and a “fru-fru” dog store, as my sister put it, called Three Dog Bakery, where we bought some fru-fru treats for my sister’s dog, who had suffered some kind of allergic reaction the night before that made her entire head swell up).
Kim's shrimp tacos with sweet potatoes at Tupelo Honey Cafe in Asheville. Photo by Lindsey Nair l The Roanoke Times.
For lunch, we went to a place that had been recommended to me years ago by a colleague, Mason Adams. The restaurant, Tupelo Honey Cafe, was so busy at noon on a Saturday that it had a two-hour wait. Since my impatient husband was not with me and we were able to take a buzzer that worked within a fairly wide area around the cafe, we decided to wait. A pack of nabs and a visit to a wine and beer shop helped the time go by.
About an hour and 15 minutes later, we were buzzed and seated on the heated front patio. I’m glad we ended up on the front patio because I thought the interior of the restaurant was very crowded and loud.
We had a wonderful lunch at the cafe. I ordered a vegetable melt with fried green tomatoes, sauteed spinach, mushrooms, onions, roasted red peppers and Havarti cheese. Mom had a grilled chicken sandwich with Havarti and cranberry mayonnaise. My sister had shrimp tacos. I was very impressed by the variety of side dishes offered. I picked salsa verde black-eyed peas while Mom went with fried green tomatoes and Kim went with pureed sweet potatoes. Other options included cheesy smashed cauliflower, macaroni and cheese, and greens.
Besides the good service and the A+ food, I was really intrigued by the menu selections. Sometimes it feels as if I see the same items on menus around Roanoke, particularly when it comes to side dishes and appetizers. And it didn’t hurt that we were able to wash down our lunches with some good craft beer (not that you can’t do that here).
Downtown Asheville seemed so much larger than downtown Roanoke. We encountered about six different street musicians, whether individuals or groups, that were all very talented and were attracting the attention of passers-by. I think I was most surprised by the number of restaurants and shops in the downtown area. The only two shops I saw that weren’t indie were Ten Thousand Villages and Urban Outfitters, and several times we walked past three or four (or more) restaurants in a row, all with vibrant outdoor seating areas.
I’m very curious as to whether there are enough folks in Asheville to support all those shops and restaurants. I’m sure people wonder the same thing when they visit Roanoke, at least in regards to restaurants. It’s impossible to get a good read on a city during a one-day visit, so I won’t pretend to have any informed opinions about Asheville.
What I can say is only what I have witnessed: That Asheville’s downtown area is larger, but in my opinion no prettier than Roanoke. That Asheville has more shops, but the inventory seemed more expensive. That Asheville has a lot more young people on the streets of downtown. And that when it comes to sidewalk life, Asheville’s is most certainly a lot livelier, at least in the area we explored. Finally, Asheville has the Biltmore Estate, which brought railways to the area when it was under construction and still brings hoardes of tourists today.
I expected to leave Asheville wishing, just a little bit, that Roanoke was more like it. And in some ways, I do. But I also feel content to live where I do, so long as we continue to see new offerings that will draw both residents and tourists alike.
Those who know Asheville should feel free to disagree with me. I would also love to hear where you think I should go if I make the trip again.
November 27, 2012 - 6:02 AM
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I went to Mars Hill College, just above Asheville, back in the mid-Eighties. Asheville, at that time, was sort of a sleepy little Old Money town that didn’t feel all that much different from Roanoke.
What I found back in October when I went back for the first time in 26 years was that Asheville had simply embraced the new without turning its back on the old. They’d welcomed young newcomers and not only allowed change, but embraced it. The Star City is facing this same crossroads right now.
The focus of my trip was beer and barbecue, and a step back in time to the old alma mater. I was only down there for a few days, but I can recommend the two best barbecue joints in town, 12 bones and Luella’s. As for the microbreweries, Asheville Brewing Company is a definite must. Their Fire Escape jalapeno-infused beer is worth the drive down by itself.
Here is a link to the piece I wrote for OKRA magazine, http://bit.ly/10NWrxp
My best friend lives in Asheville, so we visit a lot. I love Tupelo Honey. Asheville seems to have a lot more hippies than Roanoke, and you’re right, they must be rich hippies because the stuff in the stores is really expensive.
While Tupelo Honey is good for what’s becoming a chain-style restaurant, there are plenty of local places to try that are, in my opinion, better. There’s Early Girl Eatery, a popular breakfast spot. The Market Place, Laughing Seed Cafe, LAB, and The Admiral are all good choices. For the sweet tooth, there’s French Broad Chocolates and The Chocolate Fetish. And, of course, Asheville is a craft beer lover’s dream (Thirsty Monk is a great place to try out the local brews). Roanoke is obviously trying to move beyond the Asheville comparison and doing a fine job of it (as far as food goes, I have yet to find a meal that beats River and Rail in any of the Southern darling towns such as Asheville and Charleston, SC [and that includes Husk]). Asheville, however, does retain an edge when it comes to local breweries and farm-to-table meals.
Great report, I love Ashville. Next time check out Barley’s tap room and Topps shoes is worth a visit. Then head up to the Grove park Inn and have a coffee on the veranda or by the fireplace while sitting in an original Stickley chair!
The veggie melt with Havarti cheese sounds yummy. Any directions for making this dish?
Chicken fingers. Spinach artichoke dip. Quesadilla. Nachos.Mozzarella sticks. Boneless wings. Am I missing anything?
You feel like you see the same things on the menus here because you do see the same things on the menus here.
@Mindy, one of my sister’s colleagues mentioned The Admiral. Thanks for the suggestions, folks.
@Kristen, yes, you are missing potato skins, bone-in wings and cheese fries.
@Tosh, I don’t think that sandwich would be difficult to make at home. The hardest part would be the fried green tomatoes. Then all you’d need is a slice of good bread, toasted, and some sauteed spinach, mushrooms and onions, and some roasted red peppers and a Havarti cheese. Stack ‘n’ broil.
Thanks, Lindsey. I guess I didn’t think that a “vegetable melt” referred to a sandwich. Panini-style would also be good. Will have to try!
We have family about an hour away from Asheville – and like downtown, but we always go to Weaverville for our dinner! It’s a smaller town on the outskirts of Asheville (10 minutes?). Love Well-Bred bakery and Blue Mountain Pizza!
Lindsey, there’s a brew pub in KDH on Croatan Hwy. that has these awesome breaded and fried jalapeno slices on the app menu. I wish someone here would read this and put them on their menu…they were delicious.
Many people want to be something else and seen never satisfied with what they have. When I was geowing up in Suffolk in the late 50′s, people there went to Norfolk to shop. Norfolk people went to Richmond, Richmond to Washington and Washington to NYC, not satisfied with what they had and wanting to be like some other place. While I like to visit other areas, I love Roanoke and do not feel we need to be like something we are not.
@ Tosh, I think it was described on the menu as an open-faced sandwich.
Love, Love, Love Asheville. I have been to the downtown area during different seasons and have enjoyed each one. Always something new to see – differnt restaurants to try. The people are very interesting and entertaining. The drum cirle across from Tupelo Honey during the summer months is great – hippy fest but fun! There is more “energy” in Asheville’s downtown and a greater variety of shopping – but as you mentioned – the specialty shops come at a price. There is always something to do for all ages in and around Asheville. The folks at the Visitor’s Center are very helpful to plan a day and there are trolly tours throughout downtown. BUT my most favorite thing is the PURPLE BUS!! Yes, Indeedy do! Gotta try it. Hilarious!
Did you notice that all with just a few exceptions are locally owned restaurants?
@Gig, it did appear to me as if all the restaurants I saw in the part of downtown Asheville I explored were independently owned. I remember commenting that Subway was the only chain restaurant I saw anywhere down there.
At the end of July there is a huge huge festival, I went 3 yrs ago, it was the best festival, can’t think of the name of it at the moment but it is in downtown Asheville, lots of crafts and musicians. There is also a great yoga studio there too.
We took a trip to Asheville and stayed in a log cabin motel outside of town. Wasn’t great, very cozy (small), with a bad bed. However the Segway Tour of Asheville was great and that night we went on the Haunted Tour. We did not see any ghosts; however, people on the tour saw what they wanted to see. We enjoyed the restaurants, street performers, the beer, and the people. Did you know Asheville is where Art Deco started? Cool place, great review.
Wow that vegetable melt is killing me, how far is Asheville!! Thanks for the tip.
Michelle – it is called Belle Cher or Bel Cher (not sure of the spelling at the moment). It’s very popular but at the end of July sometimes very hot!
I think David is correct in his assesment that somewhere different is more appealing than what you are used to. Having been to both cities recently I see unique and interesting things in both of them. What puts Asheville ahead of Roanoke is the Biltmore and Grove Park Inn because they bring in lots of tourists, many of which have deep pockets. Such variety of people can support a variety of dining and shopping establishments.
All in all, my visit with Lindsey to Asheville was great but next time she visits I’ll take her to downtown Greenville,SC which to me is more similar to Roanoke than Asheville is. Lots of good food there too for her to write about
@ Michelle – Bele Chere! It is awesome – packed with art and other vendors!
Try downtown Chattanooga, another example of revitalied dead downtowns.
I love Asheville. The people are all so friendly. I have been to Bele Chere and love the street party atmosphere with alcohol. I found the shopping to be reasonable but I guess it could depend on what you are shopping for. I love Salsa’s Mexican Caribbean Restaurant – fresh ingredients with every dish. They have the best Mojitos I have ever tasted! There is definitely a great energy in downtown Asheville that I just don’t get here in Roanoke.
I love Asheville, too. My wife and I spent our honeymoon there this past June. A great place for brunch is “Over Easy Cafe” on Broadway Street. They buy almost all of their ingredients locally and use lots of organic items. I was skeptical at first, but of all the place we visited for dining (and we went to a ton) this was our favorite.
I think that The Admiral and Curate (owned by an El Bulli alumna) are tied for best restaurant in Asheville. Thumbs up also to French Broad Chocolate Lounge (and now, Factory–they’re also a living wage company), Early Girl Eatery, Fig, Bouchon (excellent moules frites; adorable owner), and Salsa’s. I feel fortunate to live only two hours away–put it that way!
We used to live in WNC, and I worked AT&T MMH. I loved just walking thru the downtown, eating at Stone Soup, never missing a chance for a piece of rhubarb pie. It’s an easy city to amble through.