Most of the time when a restaurant attempts to master two entirely different styles of cooking at once, I am suspicious.
Take Circles, for example, a short-lived restaurant in Vinton, which served French, Italian and Thai food. I never made it out to Circles because it didn’t last long; the owner closed up shop to move downtown and open City Corner, the buffet-style joint beside Corned Beef & Company.
But just the idea of Italian food and Thai food coming out of the same kitchen baffles me. I don’t know why — they both come out of my kitchen. Just not on the same night.
Fast forward to now, when I actually find myself advocating that you guys try out a quirky little place on Williamson Road that turns out Latino and Italian food.
El Buen Gusto opened near Civic Mall within the past several months. It’s located in a nondescript little brick building that looks like it could have once housed a check cashing service or something.

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