Proud patriarch
n the beginning, there was just the lone El Rodeo restaurant on Williamson Road — and all the friends and relatives who came to work for it.
When Jesus Arellano first migrated to the United States, he traveled back and forth between San Jose de la Paz, and Asuza, Calif., for several years.
That was 20 years ago, back when Roanoke’s Mexican food scene was limited to little more than a Chi-Chi’s franchise. El Rodeo co-founder Jesus Arellano had to drive to Atlanta just to get tortillas.
Now, Roanoke supports more than two dozen Mexican restaurants. Most of them are owned by, related to or spun off from that original El Rodeo.
The family’s five Roanoke restaurants are still run by the patriarch and two of his sons, Agustin and Elijio Arellano.
Jesus Arellano is referred to as “Don Chuy” (pronounced “Don Chewy”) by everyone from cooks and customers to some area judges. Don is a Spanish moniker for a patriarch and used as a title of respect; Chuy, a nickname for Jesus.
Gallery Arellano proudly acknowledges his role as the godfather of the area Mexican restaurant scene.
While his chain of restaurants no longer fuels Roanoke’s Hispanic growth, it was the force behind its genesis. Hundreds have migrated here just to work for Arellano, with their families and friends following gradually over the years.
“The first Mexicans in this city, we all knew each other, and just about all of us were related somehow to El Rodeo,” explained Edgar Ornelas, a nephew who migrated from Mexico City at age 11.
Ornelas and his family came with the help of a “coyote,” a smuggler who guided them around border-patrol guards. Once settled in Roanoke, both Ornelas and his mother went to work at El Rodeo, eventually buying a home of their own and, as time and the law allowed, acquiring legal status.
For years, that’s the how and why most Hispanics turned up here: because Don Chuy helped them and because he did it first.
During a busy Friday night dinner waiter Jesus Malaga serves an armload of food to their Anglo customers. Malaga came to America four years ago from Mexico and, like many Mexican immigrants in Roanoke, first landed a job at El Rodeo.


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