Working tirelessly
The early days were brutal. Jesus Arellano and his business-partner brother-in-law, Antonio Lopez, lived in a nearby efficiency apartment, doing all of the remodeling work, cooking and dishwashing. In 1990, the men parted ways, splitting the restaurants between them. (The Arellanos own the El Rodeos on Brambleton Avenue and West Salem’s Wildwood Road, and the El Toreos on Brandon Avenue and Franklin and Thirlane roads.)
Gallery From Jesus Arellano to the lowliest dishwasher, they all worked tirelessly. Nephew Ornelas recalls seating customers and refilling chip baskets — at the age of 12. “There were no tiendas or stores, so a lot of people who worked there brought in their families and friends,” Ornelas said. “Everyone new in town went to my cousin and my uncle for jobs.” No one sat still for long.
Arellano’s children describe a typical first-generation immigrant lifestyle. “Don’t think that success meant he could go easy on us,” said Elijio Arellano, first a dishwasher and now an owner/manager of several locations. “He was always tougher on us than the actual employees.”
When Agustin Arellano moved to Roanoke to help his dad at the age of 21, he worked long hours for weeks on end. “The first afternoon I had off, I didn’t know what to do. I ended up going to a movie by myself.”
As the business expanded and his work force grew, Arellano’s patriarchal position became legion even outside the Hispanic community. Kris Tilley-Lubbs, a Virginia Tech professor who is active in Roanoke’s Hispanic community, recalled a judge’s sentencing an El Rodeo worker for driving without a license and drinking underage.
“You serve your four weekends in jail,” the judge said, “pay your fines and then tell Don Chuy to fix your papers,” referring to the legal work needed to obtain an employment permit.
During a busy Friday night dinner waiter Jesus Malaga serves an armload of food to their Anglo customers. Malaga came to America four years ago from Mexico and, like many Mexican immigrants in Roanoke, first landed a job at El Rodeo.


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