2009.07.24
Sear. Braise. Glaze.
www.finecooking.com
One of the most hunger-inducing food articles I've seen in a long time appears in the June/July issue of Fine Cooking magazine. Writer Bruce Aidells details a "new way to grill" tougher cuts of meat such as brisket or country spareribs without heating up the kitchen at all. He calls it "barbecue-braising," and although braising meat in a pot on the gas grill for a couple of hours will sure burn up some fuel, it looks fun and the recipes look so good I could almost eat the pages of the magazine.
Basically, Aidells' method involves first smearing a rub all over the meat and searing it on a hot grill to brown the outside and add that nice flavor. Next, he advises placing the meat in a covered pot filled with braising liquid and letting that simmer on the grill for a long time at a low temperature. Finally, he finishes the meat off directly on the grill with a glaze "for a final layer of flavor."
Recipes in the article include Country Spareribs with Beer and Mustard Glaze, Thai Chicken Legs with Lemongrass Glaze, Moroccan Lamb Shanks with Honey-Mint Glaze, Bourbon Beef with Mustard Glaze and Vietnamese Short Ribs with Sweet Vinegar Glaze. For each dish, there's a recipe for the rub, the braising liquid and the glaze. Are you drooling yet? Uh-huh, I thought so.
If you'd like to read the entire article, you can do that right here on the Fine Cooking Web site. But you have to become a member on the site or buy the magazine to access more than just the lamb recipe, so I think I'll share one right now. Eenie, meenie, miney, mo... let's go with the Vietnamese Short Ribs.
A word about English-style short ribs: If you cannot find these at Kroger or Ukrop's, I know they carry them at Fresh Market. You can also check your local independent butcher shop. O'Brien's in Salem will order them for you. English-style short ribs are different from flanken-style short ribs in that the latter is cut across the bone and the former is cut parallel to the bone. Fine Cooking says you can use flanken-style if you must, but the cooking time might have to be reduced.
Have a great weekend!
Vietnamese Short Ribs with Sweet Vinegar Glaze
Serves 4
For the ribs:
1 Tbsp. mild pure chile powder, such as ancho (or sub in hot Hungarian paprika)
1 tsp. five-spice powder
1 tsp. dark brown sugar
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
4 lbs. English-style beef short ribs (see note above)
For the braising liquid and glaze:
2 Tbsp. peanut oil
2 cups chopped yellow onion
1 Tbsp. chopped garlic
2 tsp. minced fresh ginger
3 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1/4 cup plus 2 tsp. rice vinegar
3 Tbsp. dark brown sugar
2 Tbsp. Asian fish sauce
1 Tbsp. soy sauce
1 whole star anise
Garnish: thinly sliced scallions and/or cilantro sprigs
1. In a small bowl, combine the chile powder, five-spice powder, brown sugar, 2 tsp. salt and 1 tsp. pepper. Sprinkle generously all over the ribs. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours but preferably overnight.
2. Prepare a gas grill for direct grilling over medium-high heat. Grill the ribs until all sides are nicely browned, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Let cool briefly and then tie with a couple of loops of butcher's twine.
3. Prepare the grill for indirect grilling. Set an 8-quart heavy-duty pot over medium heat and when hot, add the oil. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and stir for 1 minute more. Pour in the chicken broth, 1/4 cup of the vinegar, 1 Tbsp. of brown sugar, the fish sauce and the soy sauce. Add the star anise, bring to a boil and then remove the pot from the heat.
Put the ribs in the pot and set the pot on the grill over the cool zone. Cover the pot, close the grill lid and cook for 30 minutes. Check the ribs and rearrange so they remain submerged in the simmering liquid. Check the ribs again after another 30 minutes and move them around if necessary. After another 30 minutes, check the ribs for tenderness. They should be fork-tender but not falling apart. If they are not tender enough, continue to cook, checking every 15 minutes. Remove the ribs from the pot and set aside.
Pour the liquid into a heatproof vessel, such as a Pyrex measuring cup, and let sit until the fat rises to the top. Skim off and discard the fat. Taste the liquid; if it is too watery, return to the pot and boil over high heat until flavorful.
4. Prepare the grill for direct grilling over medium-high heat. Pour one cup of the braising liquid into a small saucepan and stir in the remaining 2 Tbsp. of brown sugar and 2 tsp. rice vinegar. Over medium-high heat, reduce the liquid until it becomes syrupy, about 12 minutes -- you will end up with about 1/3 cup.
Brush the glaze over one side of each short rib and grill, glazed side down, until the glaze begins to bubble and lightly darken, 2 to 3 minutes. Brush another surface with the glaze and turn the ribs. Continue to brush and glaze, turning frequently, until all sides are nicely glazed. Transfer the ribs to a warming platter, drizzle with the remaining braising liquid and garnish with scallions and cilantro.
