2009.02.11
Arba'een Holiday
Four days from day, Iraqis and Shi'a worldwide will celebrate Arba'een. In southern Baghdad, the holiday has already begun.
To say use the word 'celebrate' may have too joyous of connotations for Arba'een. Actually, it is a holiday of mourning for Hussein, the son of the son-in-low of the prophet Mohamed.
'Arba'enn' literally means 'forty' in Arabic, as Arba'een is forty days after the holiday of Ashura, which is three months after Ramadan. The Shi'a and some Sunnis take the day to mourn the loss of Hussein again. [see my column on "Holidays in Iraq" for more information on Hussein]
Hussein's grave is located in Karbala, which is about 90 kilometers south of Bagdad. Many Iraqis go to visit his grave and, to show solidarity and make a sacrifice, the great majority walk. The trek officially began today, four days before Arba'een, but many Iraqis have had a head start for days.
The Iraqi Army has manned many checkpoints along the major routes. The south-running side of the separated highway was closed for walkers with traffic for both directions flowing on the northbound side. Traffic is quite packed on this route, particularly with walkers on the southbound side.
Also, the Iraqi government has set up tents at intervals on the route for people to rest or spend the night. The significance here is that under Sadaam (a Sunni), Arba'een was forbidden. However, the holiday re-emerged a few years ago and has grown in size every year.
Talking to an Iraqi officer today, he joked that Iraq has 230 days per year of holiday, 60 days off and 70 days for working. We laughed, and then I tried to explain that we have a three or four-day weekend in most months in the States. Of course, this is really just a day or two more off. He is exaggerating, but to be honest, daily life has appeared significantly altered for a week now already leading up to Arba'een.
Iraqis march to Karbala for Arba'een. This was before they closed the southbound lane to traffic. The crowds of people have grew.
Iraqis march to Karbala for Arba'een. This was before they closed the southbound lane to traffic. The crowds of people have grew.
Rest tents on the side of the road, as seen from the gunner's turret from a U.S. military vehicle.
Rest tent on the side of the road, as seen from the gunner's turret from a U.S. military vehicle.
Arba'een celebrators seen near the Iraqi Army base.
